[Istanbul]
I am in Istanbul, where it has been snowing for two days and is freezing cold. Having had many arguments with Buffin about whether or not Turkey should join the European Union, I was curious if being here would change my mind. There are very few women here with the scary black head-to-toe outfits you see in some parts of Paris and London, and lots of dark-rooted blonds with long loose hair and makeup. But most of the women and girls in this city wear veils. That doesn't seem too European to me. I am reading John Freely's guide to Istanbul. He says that in 1924 the city was only 60% Muslim. Now it is almost 99% Muslim. Most of that is because millions of people from the poorest parts of Turkey have moved to Istanbul in the past 80 years, bringing traditional attitudes with them. But at the airport I was astonished to see billboards you wouldn't see in an American airport-- they would offend too many people.
Turks seem like straightforward, proud and honest people, for a first impression. Istanbul is a lovable, tolerant,
and fascinating city, especially for a "lover of old stones" like me. I had no idea, for example, of the Roman cistern-- which sounds boring but was huge and one of the weirdest places I have ever been. C recognized that it had been used in the James Bond movie "From Russia With Love." I would like to come back and spend a long time in this city, in the winter again. No crowds anywhere! I will post my photos when I get back home.
It was fun going to the Spice Market today. 
It's winter, so the tourists are covered up, and the merchants have to try to size you up with not much to go on. I heard "Bonjour, Madame!" the most, but A, who was wearing a Russian hat, got "Russiya! Russiya!" and a few people thought C was Swiss. I have no idea what "Swiss" looks like! I liked the atmosphere of the Spice Market, very cheerful and yet respectful. I bought some delicious dates stuffed with almonds, some cinnamon sticks and hot peppercorns and cumin, a brass mortar and pestle, and a spice grinder.
Once I was in a souk in Aleppo, Syria, and heard a luckless merchant calling hopefully, "Scarves? Cheap and nasty? Scarves? Very cheap and nasty?"
I remember these dates stuffed with almonds. Just sinfully delicious ;)
Posted by: Claude | 14 February 2006 at 00:15
Ooh cheap AND nasty, you can't beat that, can you?
I'm jealous, have always wanted to visit Istanbul. Can't wait to see the photos whe you get back.
Posted by: Sammy | 14 February 2006 at 11:50
It seems like a wonderful city. I just spent the afternoon with my Turkish friend, who I always find to be so warm and open. If she's any indication of what the rest of the citizens are like, it must be a very pleasant and hospitable country.
Posted by: misschrisc | 14 February 2006 at 17:46
...oh and I hope you bought one of those "cheap and nasty scarves!" They're all the rage! :)
Posted by: misschrisc | 14 February 2006 at 17:52